Betta Diseases
Bettas get sick just like we do and it is important that you know the difference between a healthy betta and a sick one.
Signs of a healthy betta:
1. Active and agressive.
2. Shinny scales and colorful.
3. Great appetite.
4. Proportionate and smooth body.
5. Tail and fins should be spread.
6. Eyes should be even and clear.
Signs of a sick betta:
1. Immobilize and slow.
2. Loss of appetite or does not eat or eats very little.
3. Loss of colors on body, tail and fins.
4. Tail and fins are droopy or covered with dark edges.
5. Stomach staying big and swimming unevenly.
6. Body is covered with white cotton stuff, white dots or sores.
7. Scales are raised (like a pine cone...very grossly looking).
8. Red lines or patches on body and head.
9. Big swollen eyes or eyes are covered with grey layer.
10. Swims in short bursts and usually stays at the surface of the water for days.
If your betta is sick, the first thing you need to do is to immediately quarantine (move it to a treatment jar or tank) your betta. You will need to identify what kind of disease your betta has contracted and treat it immediately. Some diseases are not deadly and some are very deadly. If you don't act accordingly, your betta could be dead within 24 hours.
Remember, there is no such thing as a disease that only a betta fish can contract. Bettas are tropical fish and they are freshwater fish, so I will list the known types of diseases for freshwater fish.
Type of known diseases for tropical fish:
Disease |
Symptoms |
Treatment |
| Parasites |
White spots which may cover entire body; rubbing; scratching against bottom. |
Treat with Maracide or CopperSafe. Use Marycyn or Tetracyne to prevent secondary infections. |
| True Fungus |
Whittish of cotton-like material found on the tail, body and fin. |
Treat with MarOxy. Use Marycyn or Marycyn 2 to prevent secondary infections. |
| Body Fungus |
Greyish-white stringy material covering most of the body; white or grey patches. |
Treat with Marycyn. |
| Bacterial Infection |
Fish appears sluggish, not eating, hiding, or may have swollen body, raised scales, red streaks, red spots or bleeding on body area. |
Treat with Marycyn 2. |
| Gill Infection |
Gills are swollen and protruding with red color. |
Treat with Maracyn 2 or Tetracycline tables or TriSulfa or CopperSafe or Maracide. |
| Popeye |
Eyes may be cloudy, hazy or protruding |
Treat with Maracyn 2 or Tetracycline tables or TriSulfa or CopperSafe or Maracide. |
| Fin and Tail Rot |
Tails and fins are torn or frayed for no apparent reason. |
Treat with Maracyn 2 or Tetracycline tables or TriSulfa or CopperSafe or Maracide. |
Special Notes:
Diagnosis of bacterial infections and parasitic infestations in freshwater fish is very difficult even for the most advanced aquarist. While no drug is 100% effective, you should not hesistate to try other medication products if the product you are using does not give the results you desire.
Environmental Factors: Checking water, filtration system, aeration system, PH and chlorine will keep your fish healthy and free from disease.
1. Temperature - Make sure the temperature is correct. It should be between 70-82F. If needed, adjust the temperature and make the changes slowly.
2. Aeration - Check tubing and pump to ensure maximun airflow.
3. Filtration - Clean filter if dirty and check for obstruction.
4. Ammonia/Nitrite - Use test kit or test strip to measure the levels.
5. Water Clarity - Change water if your water appears to be cloudy and not clear.
6. PH/Buffering - Use test kit or test strip to measure the PH level. It should be around 7.0 - 7.4 for bettas.
7. Chlorine/Chloramine - Use test kit or test strip to measure the levels.
You can find test kit and treatment conditioners for freshwater fish online or at local petstores such as PetCo and PetSmart. The test kit will instruct you on how to measure Ammonia, Chlorine and PH in your water and the treatment conditioners can help you neutralize the level of Ammonia, Chlorine and PH.
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